Winter Special: Slow-cooked Sarson ka Saag

Motherhood can teach you so many things. For me, it’s this slow-cooked saag that I love to feed my kids in winters—even if it’s made once a year. And the rebel cook in me goes like—why do I kill the veggies in the cooker? Why the speed? Why blend all the greens? It took me a couple of years to nail this recipe. But I now love to make it! Here’s how.

Ingredients:

Sarson (mustard leaves), methi (fenugreek leaves), bathwa, palak (spinach), pudina (mint leaves; optional), maize flour (makai ka aata), onion, tomato, ginger, garlic, green chillies, ghee, homemade butter, salt to taste, kitchen king masala, garam masala, asafoetida, cumin seeds, turmeric powder, red chilli powder, coriander powder. Sometimes, I add a hint of kasuri methi too. Sometimes I skip it.

The prep:

Go to a nearby mandi, or wherever you find fresh winter greens. Buy a bunch of each green mentioned.

Now, I usually take half a bunch of each of these greens (for the recipe). Perfect for 2-3 people. But, sometimes, I take the entire bunch that the veggie guy sells. That much is perfect for 4-5 people. 

Now, thoroughly wash every veggie and chop it finely. This way, you won’t have to mash it too much. A hint of pudina (mint leaves—even 1 cup works) will add an aromatic flavour to this dish. I love it!

Once you have cleaned and chopped all the veggies, throw it in a big pan with half cup of water. Don’t panic. It will go down to half in 3-5 minutes. Let it simmer. You can put on the lid once the quantity lessens and the cooking process begins. No salt needed here.

Keep checking your greens. As there is the lid allowing it to steam it well, you won’t have to use a blender. Just give it a good mix with your spoon and you should be good.

Second step:

Grate 1 medium-sized tomato. Finely chop 1 medium-sized onion. This measurement is perfect if you take 1 bunch of every green. Now hand-pound 1-2 green chillies, a hint of ginger and 5-8 cloves of garlic. Once this is done, do the tadka and throw it in the pot of greens.

For the tadka, take a small pan. Heat some ghee. Once hot, add cumin seeds. Asafetida. Turmeric powder. Red chilli powder. Coriander powder. And quickly add the green chilly-garlic-ginger paste. After a minute, throw in the chopped onion. After a minute of sautéing, add the tomato paste. Now add salt. When making saag, it’s a bit tricky with the salt. Try not to go overboard. You can always add more later in the cooking process. Also, if you plan to use store-bought butter, you are anyway going to add more salt later.

Add a tsp of kitchen king and two pinches of garam masala as well. Let this cook a bit and throw it all in the pot of greens (when you see that the greens have cooked nicely). Mix it properly.  After 2-3 minutes of cooking it with the greens, you may add ½ or 1 cup of warm water to make it a bit runny otherwise it will be too thick to eat. 

Don’t miss the ‘Aalan’

This saag is called a saag because of maize flour. Take a small bowl of water (room temperature) and mix 1 tablespoon of maize flour in it. Add this yellow paste to your saag (after you have added the tomato-onion paste). This is going to give it that aroma and make it body. Without this, your saag won’t taste like saag. 

Taste. Taste. Taste. 

Give your saag a taste. Adjust the flavours if need be. Throw in some homemade butter/makhan for that desi taste. A spoon of ghee on top will make it shine as well. It takes me 30-40 minutes to make it (prep time excluded).

Serve it with makai ki roti (don’t miss the butter on top), a nice salad of onions, carrots and radish, chaas (buttermilk), and, a small chunk of jaggery.

Background music score: Ek Lau by Shilpa Rao, Dhaani and Najaney Kyun by Strings

No looking back

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I never used to cook much when I lived with my parents. After marriage, it was just me and my husband living together in Mumbai. My in-laws lived in a different state. So, there was no fear in my mind as such to get up early and prepare the tiffin on daily basis. 

One day, my mum gave me strict instructions over the phone. “Get up early. Take a bath. Say your prayers and ring the bell in the temple (present in the house). And then start cooking,” she said. The time was set. The lunch-box had to be ready by 8 AM as that’s when he left for work.

So, there I was, up at 5.30 AM, hell-bent on doing exactly what my mother asked me to do. I entered my kitchen only after doing all the three tasks. Rang the bell in my makeshift temple (felt heavenly). Washed my hands, and went near the basin to pick up the spinach leaves I kept the previous night to cook. The best part was, I did everything on time. Presently, the time was 6 AM sharp. And I saw an ant attack on my spinach leaves! The tiny warriors ran on the plate and I didn’t know what to do. So, I sat on my kitchen floor, and carefully, started separating the ants from the huge bunch of leaves.

I was extremely precise in separating them both ants and leaves. Slowly and steadily, I reached a level where my plate started weighing a bit lighter. Sometime, in between, my husband entered the kitchen and made himself a glass of Bournvita. “That’s okay, baby. I’m leaving for work,” he said. I, on the other hand, was in state of horror to push the million ants away from my spinach leaves. “I’m sorry. It’s such a mess here,” I responded, irritably.

And guess what? When he returned home in the evening around 6 or 7PM, I was still cleaning the same bunch of spinach leaves!

The following day, after the spinach and ant episode, I woke up in the last minute and prepared the lunch in my night-suit, gave the lunch-box to him and went back to complete sleep, while my husband went off to work. And that became my routine.

Well, now you would have guessed my speed when I started out working in the kitchen. I was damn slow. Things just registered late in my mind. Month after month, you could see my experiments with measurements going haywire, and I had to learn a lot from my mistakes. 

I have a passion for reading magazines, and it was in Marie Claire India magazine (discontinued now), in which I spotted the recipe of Amritsary Choley. The magazine used to carry beautiful photo essays, and I tore this particular page that comprised a chef’s recipe of it. In the big photo on that page, there was the holy Golden Temple, and in a small shot, you could see a bowl of Amritsary Choley. It was written in a simple language, and it just clicked to me that the recipe could be the path breaker for me as a home chef.

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So, I tried the recipe on one of the weekends, and loved it to the hilt. It’s rare when you make something that looks similar to the recipe’s original photo. And I was happy!

When I went to Amritsar, after a few years, I realised the flavours of the city’s local food items are not just magical, but inspiring as well. You start believing in good food, and good life. And when you can create an enchanting recipe at home, it does feel special.

And when it comes to my kitchen skills, I’d say, there is still a lot of scope of improvement. But, hey, it doesn’t matter more than one’s love for good food. Right? 

Recipe: Amritsary Chole with Ajwain Atte ki Poori

Ingredients

¾ cup – chickpeas (soaked overnight)
1 onion – finely chopped
1½ tomato – grind into paste
1 tsp – ginger and garlic paste
2-3 – dried red chillies
1 tsp – carom seeds (star of the dish)
1 tsp – cumin seeds
2 tsp – coriander powder
½ tsp – turmeric powder
1 tsp – red chilli powder (totally depends on your preference)
salt to taste
1½ tbsp – ghee
1½ tsp – chana masala (store-bought)
a few pinches – garam masala
a few pinches – anardana (for sour taste) OR tamarind pulp
For garnish

Coriander leaves – chopped
Ginger – finely cut, length-wise
Green chillies – as per your wish

Method

  1. Soak the chana or chickpeas overnight.
    2. Take the chana in a pressure cooker, add water, a tsp of ghee and turmeric powder, and close the lid. Give this 5 whistles, and then keep checking if the chickpeas have cooked properly or not. Keep the boiled chickpeas aside. Make sure there isn’t too much water, because we want a thick consistency, and not a runny one.
    3. I use a cast iron skillet to make my choley dark. So, in a cast iron skillet or kadai, add the ghee, turmeric powder, carom and cumin seeds, red chillies, and let it crackle for a few seconds. Now, dump in the chopped onion and ginger-garlic paste and start sautéing it.
    4. Now, add in the tomato paste, the spices, salt and sauté for a few minutes. You want the paste to become thick, but make sure that it doesn’t stick.
    5. Once the mixture is cooked well, add in the boiled chickpeas.
    6. Add some water, and let it boil for 10-15 minutes on low flame. Cover it with a lid, but keep checking in between.
    7. Once done, serve it with hot and fluffy pooris, and don’t forget to garnish. You can also serve some sliced raw onions, green chillies and lemon wedge to go with the dish.

Note: The last time I added anardana in this dish, I could take its hard texture in my choley. So, make sure you don’t add too much of it.

Recipe: Ajwain Atte ki Poori

Ingredients

whole wheat flour
2-3 pinches of salt
1 tsp carom seeds
1 tsp oil

Method

Mix all the ingredients, and make a tight dough. Make small balls, roll a ball into a small round shape, and fry it in oil. As you dip one in the oil, press it with the frying ladle from all sides to allow the poori to puff up. Make sure the flame is medium to high, and not low.